2 Days
Easy
5 people
English, Français, Italian
Climbing Capanna Margherita (Signalkuppe) is the most exciting high-altitude experience that a mountaineer at the beginning of his career can undertake in the Monte Rosa massif.
Capanna Margherita (Signalkuppe or Punta Gnifetti) is the highest Hut in Europe. It is the most coveted climb and probably one of the best known in the entire Alps. The technical ease and beauty of the glacial environments it crosses make it a must-do for every mountaineer looking for thrills at high altitude.
Monte Rosa, with its innumerable peaks over 4000 meters, will be the setting for these two days of mountaineering in the heart of the Alps.
Our IFMGA Guides will take care of all climb details, maximizing safety and fun.
If you are a mountaineer who is discovering the peaks of the giants of the Alps, but you don’t want to undertake technically difficult climbs, this is definitely the climb for you! On the first day we will go up to the Gnifetti refuge where we will spend the night. On the second day, at dawn, we will leave on a roped team across the suggestive Monte Rosa glacier. Surrounded by the 4000 meters of the massif, such as the Lyskamm, the Pyramid Vincent, the Corno Nero and several others, you will reach the Colle del Lys, from where you will see Capanna Margherita. From here, with another hour and a half of climbing, you will reach the highest refuge in Europe!
The ascent to Capanna Margherita is easy technically. Despite this, good physical fitness and altitude training are required. To guarantee the ascent we require the ability to face excursions of at least 1400m with ease, so as not to have problems on the day of the ascent. The high altitude can affect the performance of the climbers, having some experience at altitude or good acclimatization will make the ascent easier.
The leading Guide is a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide or Aspirant Mountain Guide.
We recommend high altitude, summer mountaineering clothing. Mountaineering boots suitable for crampons. Harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, sling and a carabiner, poles if needed. Try to carry backpack as light as possible. Functional clothing for the day and a change shirt for the hut is usually enough. We suggest a 30-35 lt. backpack. Please take some snacks and drinks with you.
Although it is a climb of easy technical commitment, in case you want to undertake the climb, we recommend that you contact us and discuss the details and the program with our guides before the expedition.
Meeting with the guide in Staffal or Alagna at cable car office at 13:30 pm. – briefing. With the lift system we arrive Indren Pass. From there we start the nice walking to the Gnifetti Hut or Mantova Hut. The last part of the trail cross the first parto of the glacier. We overnight in the hut. Up 2:30 hours – 400m
Departure around 4:30 depending on the period of the year. At the beginning the glacier is not too steep and it helps us to warm up the legs. We easily arrive at the beginning of a steep part that goes up to the Colle Vincent. Arrived at that col we continue up to Col du Lys where you'll start to have a great view on the Monte Rosa Giants, Matterhorn and Swiss Giants. From there in 1h we reach Capagnna G Gnifetti and Punta Gnifetti where a good Pizza awaits for you! The descent goes along the same itinerary down to Indren Pass. Up 4:00/4:30 hours 950m – Down 3 hours 1300m
The ascent to Capanna Margherita is easy technically. Despite this, good physical fitness and altitude training are required. To guarantee the ascent we require the ability to face excursions of at least 1400m with ease, so as not to have problems on the day of the ascent. The high altitude can affect the performance of the climbers, having some experience at altitude or good acclimatization will make the ascent easier.
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