2 Days
Advanced
1 person
English, Français, Italian
Climbing Dufourspitze Rey Ridge, 4634m, is something that will be etched in your memory forever. Second highest peak in the Alps and first in Switzerland, Dufour is a symbol mountain for classic high-altitude mountaineering.
Dufourspitze, standing at an impressive 4,634 meters, claims the title of Switzerland’s highest peak and stands as the second highest in the entire Alps. Nestled within the Monte Rosa massif, this ice-covered mountain range near the Italian border beckons mountaineers with its grandeur.
Climbing this mountain from the iconic Rey Ridge will make your experience even more exciting, adding a piece of history to your climbing to-do list.
Cresta Rey, often dubbed the “perfect line,” presents an exhilarating route. It ascends directly from the glacier to the very summit of Dufourspitze. Along this path, climbers encounter first-class rock quality—a mix of flakes, cracks, and spikes that promise an enjoyable and memorable climb.
The ascent to the Dufourspitze via the Rey Ridge is an experience that should be savored down to the last metre. On the first day we will go up to the Gnifetti hut (or to the Mantova refuge) where we will stay overnight. On the second day we will leave very early (3:00-4:00 am) and after a long approach through the Monte Rosa glaciers we will begin our climb to Rey Ridge. Climbing on excellent granite up to grade III, mixed passages, exposed and airy snowy ridges will take you to the second, but no less beautiful, peak of the Alps. Fun is guaranteed.
Excellent physical preparation and experience in mountaineering ascents of this kind are required.
Long approaches, technical climbing up to grade III on rock and mixed, exposed and aerial snow ridges, glacier crossings and long returns are the characteristics of this climb. Having these skills will allow you to fully enjoy this exciting climb.
the leading Guide is a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide.
We recommend high altitude, summer mountaineering clothing. Mountaineering boots suitable for crampons. Harness, crampons, ice ace, helmet, sling and a carabiner, poles if needed. Try to carry backpack as light as possible. Functional clothing for the day and a change shirt for the hut is usually enough. We suggest a 30-35 lt. backpack. Please take some snacks and drinks with you.
This is a climb of high technical and overall commitment. In case you want to undertake the climb, we recommend that you contact us and discuss the details and the program with our guides before the expedition.
Meeting with the guide based on personal agreement, usually 14:00-14:30 in Staffal. Check equipment. We take three cable cars up to Punta Indren 3269 m. From here begins our ascent to the Gnifetti hut 3590m where we spend the night.
Our adventure begins around 3:00 a.m., with timing adjusted based on the conditions. The Alpine glow awaits! We’ll follow the trail leading to the Margherita Hut until we reach Colle del Lys. From here, our journey takes us down along the Grenz Glacier to an altitude of 4,000 meters. Next, we climb up the small glacier nestled between Dufourspitze and Zumstein. At approximately 4,200 meters, a short, steep snow slope grants access to the proper ridge. We’ll follow the ridge, hugging its edge as closely as possible. Our goal: to arrive precisely on top of the magnificent Dufourspitze (4,634m).On our way back, we’ll follow the Italian regular route, crossing the summit of Zumsteispitze. After a quick stop at the Gnifetti Hut to repack, we’ll head back to the cable car and descend to the valley.
Excellent physical preparation and experience in mountaineering ascents of this kind are required.
Long approaches, technical climbing on rock and mixed up to III° grade, exposed and aerial snow ridges, glacier crossings and long returns are the characteristics of this climb. Having these skills will allow you to fully enjoy this exciting climb.
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