Climbing Dufourspitze Rey Ridge 4634m
Climbing Dufourspitze 4634m – The Beautiful Rey Ridge
Dufourspitze, 4634m, in the Monte Rosa area, is the highest mountain in Switzerland and the second-highest in the Alps. The “Cresta Rey” can be easily considered the “perfect line”! It rises up from the glacier exactly to the top of Dufour with a direct line; over it, it offers a first class rock quality: flakes, cracks and spikes assure a really enjoyable climb.
You have to know
- Period: from June to September
- Accommodation: Gnifetti hut CAI (3647m) with half board service.
Only to very well acclimatized people we can suggest to sleep at the Margherita hut.
- Meeting point: At 14:00 p.m. in the office in Staffal (Hotel Nordend near to the bar da Giovanni).
- Requirements: Long approach, steep terrain, rock climbing up to grade III° and exposed narrow ridges. This is a tour only for experienced and fit mountaineers. You should have already made similar tours. Please note: Depending on the conditions of the ridge the mountain guide, to guarantee a
reasonable margin of safety, can decide to do this tour with 1 or 2 participants.
- Equipment: See the equipment list in FAQ’s section.
- Weather: In the high mountains, even in summer, there could be extreme weather conditions. Three/four days before the tour/trip, we will check the weather forecast in the area, and we will inform you about it!
- Leading Guide: Mountain Guide. Shortly before the tour, you will get the phone number of the guide. For all other questions please contact us.
Services and Prices
Mountain Guide IFMGA for two days.
- 1 pax: €900.00 per person
- 2 pax: €540.00 per person
Helpful for preparation
- Apparel / Clothing: We recommend functional clothing/layering principle so you can react to the different temperatures.
- Boots: Waterproof mountaineering boots suitable for crampons.
- Lunch: Snacks and drinks you can buy in the hut. Please take some snacks and drinks with you.
- Back pack: Do not put too many things! You will be amazed how few things you need. Functional clothing for the day and a change shirt for the hut is usually enough. At the end you have to carry your back pack. We recommend a back pack with 30-40L.
- Maps: Monte Rosa – Alte valli d’Ayas e del Lys L’Escursionista | ESC08 | 1:25000 | Swisstopo Combination No. 25-15 Zermatt-Gornergrat 1:25000 | Swisstopo – No. 294 Gressoney 1:50000
For any further questions…
We are happy to help you for any further questions. Please contact our office. The equipment list is in the FAQ’s section.
- Services of IFMGA Mountain Guide for two days
- Liability insurance
- Group gear and Spare equipment (see the list in FAQs section)
- Transport, tolls and petrol to the meeting point
- Overnight stay in the hut in HB also for the mountain guide
- Cable car to Punta Indren and back
- Food and drinks
- Travel expenses
- Mountaineering equipment
- Personal equipment (see the list in FAQs section)
- The guides expenses that are split between the group members
- Any other expenses
Meeting with the guide in Staffal around 14:00 p.m.
Meeting with the guide in Staffal around 14:00p.m. – equipment check. We will take the cable car up to Punta Indren. From there we easily hike up to the Gnifetti hut, where we overnight.
Up 1:00 hours – 370m
Climbing Rey Ridge 4634m
Departure around 3:00 depending on the period of the year. We will follow the trail going to Margherita hut until the Colle del Lys; from here we first go down along the Grenz Glacier to the altitude of 4000 meters. We climb up the small glacier between Dufour and Zumstein until the base of the ridge at the approximate altitude of 4200 meters. A short steep snow slope gives access to the proper ridge. We follow the ridge always as much as possible close to its edge and we arrive exactly on top of the Dufourspitze 4634m. On the way back we follow the Italian regular route crossing the summit of Zumsteispitze. After a quick stop to Gnifetti hut to repack we go back to the cable car and the valley.
Up 6:30 hours 1200m – Down 5-6 hours 1500m
At the head of the glacial basin of Lys, at a height of 3647m on the Garstlet glacier, Capanna Gnifetti has 176 sleeping places, in heated rooms of 6 beds (bunk beds) and 4 larger room with 10/15 beds.
There are shared bathrooms, hot showers ( 1 token € 4 for about three minutes, working only in summer, not in spring), electric lighting, SOS radio rescue and a winter room which is open when the hut is closed.
Capanna Gnifetti is the base for all excursions on Mont Rosa. It is the historical stopover for more challenging climbs, for the ascent to Capanna Margherita and high altitude cross-overs.
The route to the refuge is on a glacier trail of about 1 and a half hour walking, that starts from the new station of the cableway Passo Salati-Indren at 3275m above see level, with a difference in height of 372 m. Indren can be reached with the Monterosaski lift system from Alagna or Gressoney La Trinité.
- Open: from mid June to mid September
- Altitude: 3647m
- Number guests: 176 – In winter: yes – 4 beds in the winter room
- Winter room open only from 30/9 to 28/02
- GPS: 45° 53′ 58″ N, 7° 51′ 0″ E
- Overnight stay
- Breakfast buffet sweet & salty
- Dinner (2 first courses, 1 second course with side dish, bread and dessert)
- Tea thermos
- Disposable sleeping bag liner
- Drinking water
- Any other food or drinks
- Any other expenses
- Technical equipment (these items can be rented): harness, helmet, ice axe, crampons, mountaineering boots.
- Personal equipment: 30 litre backpack, 1 litre thermos, provisions (energy bars, chocolate, dried fruit, sandwiches), first aid kit, sun glasses (protection factor 3 or 4), goggles, gore-tex jacket and overpants, windstopper vest, gaiters, mountain pants, fleece jacket, breathable base layers, lightweight gloves, thick gloves, warm hat, bandana, sun screen factor 50.
- For the huts: sleeping bag liner, change of socks, headtorch and spare batteries, mountaineering club membership, toothbrush & toothpaste, small towel, wipes, i-pod.
You can download the complete equipment list here.